Monday, May 26, 2014

Gluing in the Corner Blocks

May 13, 2014
Today at Elmer's Woodshop I finished cutting the blocks to dimension (31.5mm x 25mm x 28mm, etc.) with an engineers square and sanding tools, adjusting the mold to the fit the blocks, and glueing the blocks in place with hide glue and clamps. The next step will be to carve the actual violin corners with a corner gouge specific for the job, then bend the side ribs and glue them to the corner blocks.

Cutting Corners & Top/Bottom Blocks

April 9, 2014
Cutting out the corners: 

Paper Plan & Mold

April 18, 2014
Shaping the blocks: 

A Second Plexiglass Template for the Plates

Tuesday, March 25
I was going to do just half a template again but decided to do a full template in case the mold isn't 100% symmetrical, which it's probably not. It was interesting to compare the shape of the mold to the original paper template cut out from the plans. It's not quite the same, as expected. This violin, while based on a Stainer, will truly end up being its own creature, a one-of-a-kind instrument. All violins are one-of-a-kind. Like fingerprints. 

To get the angle of the plate corners (because they won't be pointed like the rib corners), you use a straight edge from the top center point and a point above the bottom center (which seemed an arbitrary distance from what I observed between the Barker and Art of Violins books). I marked my point at 34mm because 35mm seemed about right, but I don't like odd numbers. You draw a line from those points to 2mm from the rib corners. 

While the plate overhang is between 2.7mm and 2.75mm, the corners are closer at 2.0mm. 

Since my mold may be slightly asymmetrical, I am now distinguishing between the front and back. 

A scribe to etch the plexiglass and wood has been invaluable. I've been using Elmer's tools and am learning which ones are most useful to add to my own tool set so I can do some work from my home when I can't make it to the shop.